gucci before and after alessandro michele

But Alessandro Michele's inspiration comes slowly - usually on a daily stroll through his neighborhood in Rome. He made his memorable menswear debut for A/W 15, a collection he designed in mere days rather than the usual months, after his predecessor Frida Giannini made a brisk departure. Alessandro Michele ( Italian pronunciation: [mikle]; born 25 November 1972) is an Italian fashion designer who most recently served as the creative director of Gucci, the Italian fashion luxury house where he had been working since 2002. Identity was being lost, campaigns were becoming more and more generic. Today, his looks start with sketches. An elderly naked man sits next to a young woman dressed in black. Versace understood fashion as a great language. 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I love my job and I just followed my instinct, living the beauty of the moment. Heres what buyers predict. And he said, "Yes.". In his days as a designer at Fendi and Gucci, Michele used to sketch so much that he says he now has pains in his back and neck from crouching over and drawing. The marble hallways, lined with rows of Gucci garments and accessories, is a playground for the 49-year-old. As we look towards a post-pandemic world, talk of the Roaring Twenties: Round Two, and partying till dawn has been on fashion's mind. Sharyn Alfonsi: For an actor, right? Tonight, we're going to introduce you to Alessandro Michele, Gucci's creative director. A.M.: From the first to the second show it was all very natural. 'Celebrating this birthday means to pay homage to the mothers womb then, but also to the becoming other. For 100 years, the brand with its double G logo has been synonymous with opulence, understated luxury and over-the-top prices. The menswear business in general has continued to see extraordinary growth in recent years, with designer ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories especially robust. While every established name from Maria Grazia Chiuri to Daniel Roseberry has been thrown about as a possible candidate for the job, in-house candidates so far include Remo Macco, a Gucci veteran who was recently appointed studio design director; Davide Renne, also a longtime Gucci designer, and Marco Maria Lombardi, a member of Guccis design studio, as reported. Jared Leto: Yeah, yeah, yeah. We saw bags that were hand-sewn and hand-painted. Hence, Montelli wasnt surprised by Guccis renewed focus on menswear as a stand-alone business and believes the menswear business will be one of the main strengths in the next tenure., I welcome a move back to a separate show for mens, agreed Petersson. This proves how creative Marco is, the way he approaches projects. Jared Leto: I carried the head around. Enter Balenciaga - just don't call it a collaboration. But the thing about the head was everyone wanted to play with my head. Produced by Guy Campanile. It was worn by both women (on whom you might expect the frivolity of a fur-lined mule) and men (on whom you might not) at Guccis fall 2015 show, in Milan. I was loyal, we had a very good relationship and I was delivering what I was asked to do, but there was no sharing. Also sharing a music video for Yesterday co-starring You Mi Lee of Squid Game.. We as buyers and merchants are always looking for collections that surprise and excite us, and that present a point of view that is singular, inventive, and that will make life extraordinary for our luxury customers, he noted. Alessandro Michele: Bello is-- that it's working. Images of hands and hearts are repeated across Michele's own Instagram; hands being held, hands encasing something fragile in their palms. The director Harmony Korine, who also did a limited-edition book for Gucci, had directed a mini movie using the camera-glasses; it would premiere at the event. (LAUGH). "More strange", we heard him say as he narrowed his 200 looks to the 115 that made it into the Hollywood show. Micheles vision for his first Gucci mens runway collection was surprising, unexpected and refreshing, sharing an overwhelmingly romantic point of view that eclipsed the more overt sexiness for which the brand had been previously known, said Bruce Pask, mens fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. Without a doubt, Gucci proves that pieces like the orange sequin-covered satin FUORI!! We were coming from 15 years of pushing iconic bags and the bourgeois look, but outside the world had changed. Sharyn Alfonsi: Are you feeling a little more confident now? Sharyn Alfonsi: So when you see a tourist walking around with something awful on, you're like, "Yes.". [1] The pictures are of androgynous models in Gucci clothes interacting with fully nude geriatric men and women who are painted chalk white; shot in the gallery of an 18th-century Roman villa, they convey an overwhelming sense of mortality. She really let me think that the things you say and do and wear are a big part of your freedom, Michele said. Alessandro Michele: I was thinking about everybody. Like the shoe with the fur. Porcelain is one of my great passions and I had the opportunity to revamp a wonderful brand. As did his sex sells attitude, now seen in 2021 through the lens of fetish via Gucci's equestrian history. Frida Giannini's era continued on the same trajectory, but with a progressive indentation from Ford's sexiness. You have five days to design it. I said, Why not? I love this kind of challenge.. In Depth: Alessandro Michele on Gucci Beloved Bags Created with Sketch. He will take on the role as the new replacement for Henry Cavill. I redid the stores, pored over every small detail. Richard Ginori was a lifeline for me. Its front was made of soft black leather, decorated with the traditional Gucci gold horse-bit ornament; the back half, however, told another, more surprising story. Nudes and half-naked people abounded in her campaigns, references to fetishes and group sex make perbenists blush even twenty years later and there was one, it is not known if famous or infamous, in which a model's pubic hair was cut in the shape of a "G". It's like spectacular. I may have made some adjustments, but I built what Ive done on his foundation.. Alessandro Michele: In-- yeah, for a minute. Michele swapped out Gucci's signature sophistication for something he calls "beautiful strangeness" and tripled sales in the process. I was thinking less about the genre of movie I would make and more about the structure. "I made my song a coat. A move that worked at first but later precipitated the brand to anonymity. Marco Bizzarri: So I ask him, "Listen, if I appoint you as a creative director, are you willing to do the show, the men's show," that-- was going to happen in five days. One day, he had said, I imagine myself not working in fashion. They follow the luxury brand philosophy: you can charge as much as the buyer is willing to pay. You don't need to speak much Italian to know the word Gucci. That's right - the fashion designer said he likes ugly things. He was appointed associate to Giannini in 2011, and in 2014 took on the additional responsibility of creative director of Richard Ginori, the porcelain brand acquired by Gucci in 2013. Nobody knew what to make of what Michele whipped up for his first show in less than a week. Nothing wrong.". Such themes frequented his work season after season, and it all culminated in the. A.M.: The collection had an echo because many aspire to that freedom. There was no contract and I had not really sensed what projects Marco or [Kering chief] Franois-Henri Pinault had for the brand or for me. Sharyn Alfonsi: Who's your customer? 'I have celebrated the equestrian world of Gucci transfiguring it into a fetish cosmogony', said Michele in the show notes. The glasses would be displayed, but they were not going to be produced for sale. Jared Leto: I mean, I haven't seen it since that night basically. Michele's idea of beauty and style is nothing like the Gucci that defined luxury for decades. At Micheles request, Lanthimos had already done an unsettling series for him, which was turned into a limited-edition book. Alessandro Michele: You feel it. Watching the digital show unfold, the collection was such a manifestation of Gucci's iconography, that if I didn't know better, it could have been a debut. Dropping a Campus ADV, Terrex Swift R2 GTX, and accompanying tech apparel. Did you expect such a global reaction to your designs and know or expect that you would be appointed creative director of the brand? The Roman designer had an enormously successful nearly eight-year run as creative director that reversed the fortunes of the. Gucci park: Look from Fall 2015 mens wear, Looks from Fall 2016 ready-to-wear, looks from Fall 2017 ready-to-wear: Photographed by Catwalking/Getty Images; Look from Resort 2016: Photographed by Fernanda Calfat/WireImage; Looks from Resort 2017: Photographed by John Phillips/Getty Images for Gucci; Looks from Resort 2017: Photographed by Karwai Tang/WireImage; Look from Spring 2017 mens wear: Photographed by Pietro Daprano/Getty Images; Look from Resort 2018: Photographed by Venturelli/Getty Images; Looks from Spring 2019 ready-to-wear and look from Spring 2020 ready-to-wear: Photographed by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci. Nov. 23, 2022 In the largest creative shake-up of a fashion brand since the Covid-19 pandemic, Gucci announced on Wednesday that Alessandro Michele, its creative director, was leaving the. Is it androgeny chic or crusader couture? In the beginning, the guys around my office would say, You adore things that are ugly or strange, Michele continued. Furry-soled Princetown loafers featuring horsebits referenced the equestrian symbolism throughout Gucci's history. Nov. 30, 2022 I was never exactly an unadulterated fan of Alessandro Michele, the recently-no-longer Gucci designer. Barbie Ferreira and Havaianas present their new collab, Vestiaire Collective's new report reveals the current state of second-hand fashion, The Marc Jacobs show lasted three minutes, 5 Things To Know About "Le Chouchou," Jacquemus' FW23 Fashion Show, La mappa della Milano Men Fashion Week 2023, How the Vans and WP event at END. Conceiving new names for the collections and inspired by the music world, Michele today will present what would have traditionally been called a cruise collection and that is now dubbed Epilogue. Once again, he said, he wanted to overturn things and present a story with the people from his office instead of models, a project that includes a 12-hour livestream. First published on December 5, 2021 / 7:43 PM. Alessandro Michele: I love to be open to the things that-- make me feel like, "Oh, my gosh. I mean, he's wearing something that I never saw in any single thing-- in-- in any shop in-- in Gucci. 'Gucci becomes for me a hacking lab, made of incursions and metamorphosesOn this occasion, then, I want to honour my filial affection betraying the legacy that was handed down to me. It was a life experience, whatever happened. It's not forever. I don't know why. The right scent can enhance a room to new levels. Nearly 7 years into his tenure, he had transformed the Gucci image with. To me they were simply parts of a certain beauty and aesthetics that belonged to Gucci. Fashion, for a long time, has been in a box, he said as he looked around the crowded room. Alessandro Michele is no Gucci freshman. The upcoming runway event will come exactly eight years after the legendary mens fall 2015 show that shifted fashion aesthetics and shaped the industry for the years to come, putting Michele and Gucci at the epicenter of not only a fashion conversation but a cultural one, too. I would be very sad to see this part getting left behind., Meanwhile, Rinascentes head of fashion Federica Montelli is already bracing herself to see the first act of a more substantial shift. Sharyn Alfonsi: At first glance, you two look like you shouldn't go together, (LAUGH) right? Here, we see the clothes outside of the runway world a test to see how garments translate IRL for its consumers. He was in the cityfor the first time everfor a Gucci and Snapchat event taking place during Art Basel Miami Beach. Look at this. Micheles designs were everywhere, and yet everyone in the room looked individual, as if they had picked out an outfit that best revealed their personality. Click the icon of the ad-blocker extension installed on your browser. Jared Leto: You know, yeah, it's-- it's a very heavy head for an actor. Were they supportive or suspicious? I wanted to show how I saw the world outside, not Photoshopped, not a world frozen in a Jurassic era, and a man that was different from the Alpha man. December 5, 2021 / 7:43 PM / CBS News. I'm still dealing with the copies that I see everywhere. It is understood that the brands mens fall 2023 collection will be presented by an in-house team, which traditionally suggests continuity in moments of transition. That's the most beautiful thing, that nothing's forever. From his taxidermied treasures to bowls of buttons. The multiple directions the upcoming show could take are registered by buyers, too. All Rights Reserved. And fashion must say something now. Sharyn Alfonsi: wears what you put your heart into? Marco Bizzarri: But in a way, we have the same love for beautiful things. I instigate, but then fashion goes on its own path, from the freaks and extravagance to normality. Marco Bizzarri: So I met him in his apartment. Alessandro Michele: Yeah, it make me feel creative. Hypebeast is a registered trademark of Hypebeast Hong Kong Ltd. Gain access to exclusive interviews with industry creatives, think pieces, trend forecasts, guides and more. Alessandro Michele transformed Gucci with his inimitable passion for nostalgia, irreverence, and opulence. Forty years later, Gucci was being worn by Princess Grace of Monaco and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. That it was not Gucci. Portrait of a fashion that is no longer there, 2023 nss magazine newspaper registered with the Court of Milan. WWD and Women's Wear Daily are part of Penske Media Corporation. With the Spring/Summer 2017 collection in Milan today, we take a look back . This traditional silhouette has been a part of the Gucci identity for decades, but now, they appear with heart-shaped toes. Sharyn Alfonsi: But doesn't everybody have to afford it? While many questions remain unanswered, they are contributing to the palpable curiosity surrounding the brands mens show scheduled for Friday at 2 p.m. here, when the post-Michele era will officially kick off at the company. When Ford arrived, the brand was in great financial difficulty and needed a creative director who could reinterpret its heritage for the world of the 1990s. Ever since my first collection, Im always thinking that I could be fired. The idea of sudden termination actually seemed to motivate him. Even more challenging to the staid norms of male attire, the shoe was paired with a deep red suit that resembled narrow-cut pajamas and a patterned chiffon shirt that was tied at the neck in a soft pussy bow. Youll usually find this icon in the upper right-hand corner of your screen. It was the ultimate fashion cat nip. And watching these artisans at work, you can almost start to make sense of the high prices that make their bags one of the most desired and counterfeited items in the world. 11.23.2022 by Hannah Militano. The emphasis of Tom Ford's designs rested on the silhouette, on his exaltation of the body through an opulent use of materials. Today he keeps endless lists in. His signature audacious and colorful style mixes androgyny and contemporary romance to create a never-before-seen version of the Gucci woman. As is expected of a new designer at a heritage house, for his debut Michele nodded to the archives. Marco and I just liked each other, it was similar to being on a new date, when theres not certainty youll ever get engaged. I had been thinking of leaving for the previous two years; I was tired and flattened because I like the sense of freedom in my work. It almost felt like they were expecting it. I was thinking of Apollo and Venus, a less precise gender, of the beauty of a new generation, mirroring the reality I saw, the chic French professor blouse. They had known me for many years, they knew my approach to work, my passion, they were fans. They were saying, Oh my god, Alessandro is crazy! (LAUGH). As a farmer [selling] his vegetables, as a designer I simply staged what I saw, traveling, looking at my friends. Should we expect something very different after Epilogue? Perhaps even more radical than Micheles embrace of gender fluidity is his strong belief that age shouldnt be a factor when designing clothes. WWD: What happened once you were confirmed creative director? Michele told Tim Blanks at The Business of Fashion, 'I wanted to go back to the things I loved in Balenciaga and let fashion speak the same languageWe need to speak with everybody, there should be no boundariesWere both thieves of everything, in different ways but it belongs to both of us.'. I've worn-- like, a counterfeit Gucci shirt. Sharyn Alfonsi: What's the Italian word for hoarder or pack rat? Demna Gvaslia's S/S 17 knife boot leggings came in the Gucci Flora print along with the Gucci monogram. Gucci bus stop: Chlo Sevigny: Photographed by Mike Windle/Getty Images for LACMA; Rihanna: Photographed by Raymond Hall/GC Images; Kirsten Dunst: Photographed by Gisela Schober/Getty Images; Jared Leto: Photographed by Taylor Hill/FilmMagic; Soko: Photographed by Rabbani and Solimene Photography/Getty Images for Gucci; Cate Blanchett: Photographed by Jeff Spicer/Getty Images; Zumi Rosow, Lou Doillon, Alessandro Borghi, Ana Kra, Devont Hynes, Iggy Pop, Curtis Harding, and Dani Miller: Photographed by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci.

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